The fashions of the eminent designers of Paris were circulated exclusively to the wealthy, in the fashion plates by prominent artists for "Gazette du Bon Ton" (Journal of Good Style). The styles of pochoir (stencils) varied as much as the fashions. Many fashions were shown in a suitable setting, sometimes with a suitable (often amusing) caption - as for example where a "gentleman" outside an open door is looking at his watch and saying to the elegantly attired lady inside "You are never ready" or (illustrated) "Have you been good today?" The elegant simplicity of the fashion "croquis" or sketches is a complete change from the more graphic 'fashion narrative' style pochoir.
"Gazette du Bon Ton" was popular because of these charming pochoir fashion studies. Not only did they represent the latest styles designed by the foremost French designers of the time, they also indicated where and how they should be worn. The 'pochoir' (stencils) were skilfully rendered, and are some of the finest ever done of this labour intensive method of printing. Several stencils were carved from zinc plates, and the different tone built up by successive applications of water colour and gouache, to ensure the colours did not run together during printing. They can be viewed under Fashion/Design Antique Prints at www.antiqueprintclub.com/c-23-fashionpochoir
Sounds like a great exhibition. Pity I live so far away, I'd like to see it.
ReplyDeleteHopefully there'll still be some left by the time I get back to Brisbane.
I wonder if those fashions will ever be popular again. LOL